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Whether winding through the narrrow alleys of Il Capo, or pushing past tourists along the claustrophobic Vittorio Emmanuel, the massive Cattedrale di Palermo appears suddenly and always comes as a shock.

Originally built in 1185 by the Normans, the cathedral has undergone centuries of additions and thus displays a variety of styles. But the most distinctive is the Norman; the eastern side of the cathedral is covered in Arabesque designs and looks more like a medieval castle than a Catholic church.

The interior of the cathedral is sober, cavernous and gray, but contains a number of artistic treasures. The holy water basins, particularly, are beautifully engraved and a massive 17th-century silver urn next to the altar is impossible not to admire. The cathedral’s most curious feature is a bronze line etched diagonally across the floor, with the signs of the zodiac spaced evenly along it. It’s a calendar; sunlight from a hole in one of the cupolas shines on the line at noon, illuminating the current time of year.

For a few euros, you can pay to see the crypt, and a small museum of ancient religious artifacts, including the gruesome forearm bone of some saint. In the subterranean crypt, about twenty sarcophagi can be found. These tombs date from the earliest days of the Cathedral and, although it was awesome, I was relieved once we had enough pictures and could leave. 900-year-old zombies must be powerful, indeed, and we were all alone down there. A fresh zombie poses no great threat, but we would have been easy prey for Archbishop Walter Ophamil, the cathedral’s founder and 2nd-strongest zombie warrior.

Another room included in the ticket price is the Pantheon of Kings, where a number of Sicily’s rulers rest eternally. This section was back above ground, and probably more of interest to Sicilians or those well-versed in the history of the island. To me, they were just tombs, and not particularly striking ones.

As must be the case for any gigantic building from the 1100s, the Palermo Cathedral is an amazing place to spend some time, regardless of your faith. Approach, if you can, from Via Simone di Bologna on the eastern side for the most impressive initial view.

Location on our Palermo Map
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On the streets of Palermo, the only things which stick out more than the ancient palaces are the big Sicilian bellies. The sight of obese men puttering around on Vespas is a daily amusement, and even the toddlers have a few pounds on me. Of course, it’s all perfectly understandable. Along with pizza, pasta and ice cream, Sicilians turn out to be masters of fried food.

We’ve already sampled an unhealthy share of fried Sicilian delicacies, and plan on eating a lot more. The Ballaró Market, south of the Cathedral, is an excellent place to sample some cheap grub. We tried panelle, which are chickpea fritters thought to be Arabic in origin, and crocchè: mashed potatoes and eggs covered in breadcrumbs. But my favorite was perhaps the rascature, a dish which literally translates into “scrapes”. These oddly shaped balls are a mixture of the panelle and crocchè, and whatever else can be scraped off the bottom of the cooking pan.

The thought of eating the fried “scrapes” from a little stall in a street market shouldn’t be appetizing, but my stomach grumbles as I type. I wants them rascatures, and I wants them NOW!

Another great spot to sample fried foods is I Cuochini, tucked into a little courtyard near the Politeama Palace. This tiny eatery has been making and selling fried and baked foods since 1826, and have possibly perfected their craft. Everything here is incredibly cheap; we put together a huge plate that nearly defeated the two of us, for €7.

Oh, the goodies we munched! Allow me to take a quick trip down memory lane… Panzerotti: mini-calzones with a softer bread. Brioscine: filled French pastries made from a dough rich in egg and butter. Krapfen: little donuts. Crostini: fried breads with tomatoes and cheese. Pasticcini: pasta pockets with a variety of fillings.

So, all you chubby Palermitani: you’re excused. The extra flab is truly not your fault and, at the rate I’m currently going, I’ll be joining you soon.

Location of the Ballaró Market on our Palermo Map

I Cuochini
Via Rúggero Settimo, 68
Location on our Palermo Map
- Hotels in Palermo, Sicily

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Stepping into the neighborhood just behind the somber bulk of Palermo’s Cathedral feels like entering another country. An Arabic one, to be precise. Il Capo is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, and has managed to retain a distinctly Moorish influence in its streets and market.

Il Capo occupies the northwestern quadrant of Palermo’s historic center demarcated by the Quattro Canti, and reveals its charms like a jack-in-the-box. The first hour we spent walking around, we were unimpressed. The streets were narrow and photogenic, and had strange names like Via Sedie Volanti (“Flying Seats”) and Scippateste (which I can best translate as “Head Snatcher”), but there wasn’t much life.

But then: POP. As soon as we came upon the Piazza del Monte and Via Sant’Agostino, Il Capo burst out of its box. A busy market with vendors hawking everything from espresso makers to swordfish greeted us. Shopping around for the pine nuts and basil needed for pesto, we quickly discovered the neighborhood’s charms. A wedding was taking place in the church, and preparations for a weekend festival were underway. People seemed in unnaturally good moods; a barber and the customer he was shaving waved us in and asked us to take their picture. Random, but sure, why not?

Next to the barber, we found a bakery with white tiles and huge ovens in the back. I don’t know if we’re just having good luck, or perhaps are conditioned to dealing with more guarded Latin Americans, but people here are extraordinarily gracious to tourists. When we timidly asked if we could see the bread being made, the woman in charge immediately said, “Certo!! Entrate!”, and ushered us in.

A couple days later, we returned to Il Capo to check out the festival. The church and adjacent streets were decked out in lights extremely reminiscent of those from Valencia’s incredible Fallas festival. Unsurprising, since the best lights from Fallas are organized by Italian companies.

Morning is the best time to visit Il Capo, when the market is at its most hectic. But regardless of the hour, this strange little neighborhood is worth a look.

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Near Palermo’s Quattro Canti is the Church of Santa Caterina, whose modest exterior belies the Baroque magnificence waiting inside.

Construction on the church began in 1566, but the interior decoration dates from the 17th and 18th centuries, when Baroque was at its height, and the Catholic church was encouraging intricate detail and emotional themes.

The artists in charge of the Santa Caterina got the message! The interior of the church is visually overwhelming, almost to the point of ridiculousness. Richly colored frescoes spill out across the ceiling, and bright patterns and ornate floral patterns cover the walls, which are themselves made of colored stone. Statues and paintings, including a clever three-dimensional depiction of Jonah and the whale, occupy every spot conceivable, and finding a drab corner might be an impossible task.

The church costs just a couple euros to visit, and is definitely worth a peek inside. The Santa Caterina is one of the most exuberant places of worship we’ve seen during our travels, and definitely the most stunning showcase of the Baroque.

Location on our Palermo Map

- Baroque Architecture

We’ve been here almost a week, which is more than long enough to have come to some brash and ill-informed conclusions about the city!

Palermo, at least the port-side Vucciria where we live, is loud. There are times I can’t believe the noise. Music is played at incredible volumes by all our neighbors, including the 6-year-old below us who dances for hours every night on his balcony in his underwear. People, standing close enough to kiss, shout at each other, because that’s just the way they talk. Perhaps they’re going deaf. That’s it, first impression #1: People in Palermo are going deaf.

Adding to the noise are the constant vrooooms of mopeds, bringing me to first impression #2: Drivers in Palermo want to kill me. Innate survival instincts kicked in immediately upon arriving in Palermo, and have already become perfectly honed. Without turning my head, I can accurately judge the distance of an approaching vespa, and step swiftly to the side at just the right moment, like a pedestrian matador.

Finally and most importantly, we quickly realized that Palermo is going to provide an incredible home for the next 91 days. The food, the buildings, the history. And yes, both the noisy street life and the people, who aren’t nearly so bloodthirsty when they’re not driving.

We’re already feeling overwhelmed by the number of things we have to pack into the next three months. But if you have any insider tips on sights outside the normal tourist circuit, make sure to let us know!

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Short Term Rentals in Palermo

North of the Piazza Verdi, the impossible alleys and medieval monuments of Old Palermo give way to New Palermo, which feels like an entirely different city. Modern buildings, wide streets, usable sidewalks, fashionable shops and trees. In the ancient center of Palermo, trees are a true rarity; our dog has had to adjust to peeing on cement.

As you’d expect for the “newer” part of the city, there aren’t many historic sights, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see. On our first excursion into Nuevo Palermo, we visited the Giardino Inglese and the Mormino Museum of Art and Archaeology.

The museum is home to the private collection of the Banco di Sicilia, and is set in the Villa Zito, a neoclassical palace built in the early 18th century. Most tourists in Palermo come on cruise ships, and don’t have time for museums like the Mormino. All the better for us! After we entered and introduced ourselves, the staff sprung to life in a way that reminded me of the cups and spoons in Beauty and the Beast. We were completely alone, and carefully attended to by the guards and guides.

The exhibits (which we weren’t allowed to photograph) are fascinating, with rooms dedicated to pre-Roman ceramics and coins found in Siciliy, and others filled with paintings of Sicilian themes. For newcomers like us, it served as a great introduction to the island’s ancient culture. The museum isn’t overly large, and can be comfortably seen in a hour.

The nearby Giardino Inglese was laid out in 1851, in the English style popular at the time, which followed the natural contours of the land. A magnificent fountain is the centerpiece of the park, which also includes a number of sculptures. After visiting the Museum Mormino, you might be ready for a break, and the English Garden is definitely the place for that.

Museo Mormino – Website
Villa Zito – Viale della Libertà, 52
Location on our Palermo Map
Tel: 091 6085972

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There are things in life which you shouldn’t form an opinion on until after you’ve tried them. A new city, perhaps, or a job. Movies, new acquaintances. Things that require familiarity before a sound judgement can be made. Arancine, however, do not fall into this category. As soon as I heard them described, I knew they’d be my new favorite food of all time. Didn’t even need to taste one.

Arancine are fried, breaded balls of sticky rice filled with ragú (meat sauce), tomato sauce, and mozzarella. How could that go wrong?! Stuff those ingredients into an old sock, and I would eat it.

The existence of arancine was first recorded in Sicily during the 10th century. Although they’re eaten elsewhere in Italy, they’re a distinctly Sicilian snack and have become an emblem of pride for the island. The name means “little orange” (Italian for orange is arancia), although some of the examples you can find in street markets around Palermo are the size of rather large oranges (like the bubba in the photo above).

Arancine are street food: nothing you would order in a restaurant, but a snack to be eaten as a quick lunch, or when you’re hungry during midday. Though the ball shapes with ragú/mozzarella filling are most common, there are also arancine in cones, or filled with things like ham or mushrooms.

If you can’t get to Italy, but must try them yourself, a great recipe for classic arancine can be found at italianrecipies.about.com.

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The uneven, twisting alleyways which dominate the ancient center of Palermo are charming, but a navigational nightmare. Funny, then, that the dead center of the historic district is an impeccably laid-out intersection, and one of Europe’s earliest examples of urban planning.

Palermo’s two main thoroughfares, the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Marqueda, intersect spectacularly at the Quattro Canti. Although the intersection’s official name is Piazza Vigliena, in honor of the Viceroy who ordered its construction, everyone refers to it as the “Four Corners”.

Four identical baroque buildings stand on the corners of the plaza, which is trafficked by an equal number of gaping tourists and aggravated motorists. The buildings are incredible, each with a complimentary set of three statues. Lowest to the ground are fountains crowned by the Four Seasons. Above them, Palermo’s four Spanish rulers lord over the plaza: Charles V, Philip II, Philip III, and Philip IV. And at the top are statues of the city’s four patron saints: Santa Ninfa, Sant’Agata, Sant’Oliva, and Santa Cristina.

The aesthetic harmony generated by the matching buildings is enhanced by the fact that the Quattro Canti perfectly divides Old Palermo into its four historic zones. The Albergheria stretches out to the southwest, with its tiny streets and magnificent churches. Decaying palaces and ancient buildings mark Il Capo, to the northwest. To the northeast are the boisterous markets of the Vucciria. And the southeast quadrant is the Kalsa, whose name dates from the Arabic rule of Palermo; Al-Khalisa means “the purest”.

We’ll be exploring all these city sections in depth during the next few months, and surely will frequently pass through the Quattro Canti. Which is fine by me! It’s hard to imagine getting bored with such magnificence.

Location on our Palermo Map

- Hotels in Palermo

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Rather than have our ten-year-old French Bulldog, Chucky, endure another plane flight alone in the cargo hold, we decided to drive from Rome to Palermo in a rental. It was a long haul, but allowed us to see the verdant mountains of Calabria and the northern coast of Sicily, and also provided a first lesson in coping with Italian drivers.

We got a late start out of Rome, so stayed the night in a village called Lagonegro. So far, Spanish and English have gotten us through our stays in Latin America, Spain and the USA, but we don’t speak Italian. At the hotel restaurant, we realized how complicated that might make the next few months. Ordering dinner was an exciting game of a chance for us, and a test of patience for the waiter.

The next morning, we got on the road early, taking the A3 highway straight through the province of Calabria to Villa San Giovani, where a ferry would take us across the Strait of Messina to Sicily. Occupying the southern extreme of the Italian peninsula, Calabria is a beautiful region, lushly green, and the green waters of the Mediterranean were often visible from the highway. We cut through a number of mountains — it seemed as though a third of the journey was through tunnels.

After about twelve hours on the the country’s roads, we’re confident in saying that Italian drivers must be among the world’s most aggressive. They’re not bad drivers, but ridiculously rude. Tailgaiting within inches, honking all the time, passing at ridiculous speeds. We had one guy behind us, flashing his lights and honking, and even making that famous Italian hand gesture which so succinctly expresses aggravation. We moved over at the first chance and he passed us slowly, settling into his preferred speed, which was exactly 1mph faster than we were going. Oh, so sorry, signor!

The ferry from the mainland to Messina took about a half hour. A slow approach from the sea was the perfect way to first encounter Sicily. Jutting out spectacularly into the Mediterranean, Messina looked more like an Arabian city than an Italian one. On docking, we immediately continued on the road to Palermo — due to construction, our journey through Calabria had taken a lot longer than expected. But though we were in a hurry, we couldn’t help lingering in a few spots along the road. If its northern coast is at all representative of the rest of the island, Sicily will be gorgeous. Castles, seaside villages, impressive mountains and a refreshing absence of human congestion.

Yeah, I think we’ll be happy here for a few months!

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The second year of For 91 Days is underway. Jürgen and I pulled into Palermo at 6pm on Saturday evening, and were seated at a pizzeria exactly seventeen minutes later, fork and knife in hand, napkins tucked carelessly into collars. Unpacking suitcases would have to wait.

We’re coming off a month-long hiatus spent at our home base in Valencia, Spain, and our batteries are fully recharged. That’s good, since we’re going to need the energy. Palermo is one of Europe’s most ancient cities, with a tumultuous history going back 2700 years. Labyrinthine alleyways are packed with churches, ruins and palaces constructed in a variety of styles, depending on who happened to be in charge at the time. Phoenicians founded the city in the 8th Century BC, and it belongs to Italy today, but Palermo has also been ruled by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, French, and Austrians. Most of these groups have left permanent footprints on the city, through its architecture, food and language.

Around 700,000 people call Palermo home, making it the largest and most important city in Sicily, the island which is eternally being kicked into the Mediterranean by the boot of Italy. In Palermo, Sicilian rivals Italian as the main language on the streets and in homes. The city is most infamous as the stronghold of the Mafia, whose nefarious enterprises continue today, though on a level not usually visible to tourists… or, we hope, travel bloggers!

Alongside its magnificent architectural heritage and shady underworld, Palermo is renowned for its cuisine: pizza and pasta are joined by fresh seafood fished right off the coast. Raucous street markets sell fresh fruits and vegetables, along with Sicilian specialties like arancini: breaded balls filled with meaty tomato sauce, rice, and mozzarella. Filling the windows of the city’s many pasticcerías are desserts such as frutta martorana (colored marzipan that looks like fruit) and cannoli, which are fried dough tubes filled with a sweet ricotta-based cream. Before arriving, we tried to seriously trim down the waistlines, because we don’t plan on holding back while we’re here.

Though Palermo will offer plenty to keep us occupied, we won’t be neglecting the other treasures of Sicily during our three months here. The Aeolian Islands, Mount Etna, and the ancient ruins of Syracuse are just a few of the day trips we’ll be undertaking. Sicily is huge and though we won’t be able to get to all of it, we’ll try and hit the highlights.

As always, we’re happy to hear tips and advice from our readers — don’t hesitate to get in touch, via our contact page, Facebook or Twitter. We’re excited to be in Palermo, and hope that you enjoy our slow discovery of this unique city.