We went up and down every street and alley surrounding the San Saverio church at least three times, but we could not find the Trattoria Il Vicolo. “It’s supposed to be near the church! Ask somebody.” But most of the people around the neighborhood were either standing in dumpsters, searching for trash, or sitting before blankets on the street, selling the trash they had just found. Apparently in this corner of town, Saturday is the day for extreme bargain-hunters, and I wasn’t eager to engage anyone in conversation.

But just as we were getting ready to give up on Il Vicolo, we found it. Right across from the church. Exactly where we were supposed to be looking.

It’s tucked into a tiny alley, so wasn’t totally easy to find (yes, there was a big, prominent sign in the church’s plaza, but let’s just ignore that). Coming from the grime of the “market” outside, we had grown a little skeptical about the restaurant’s quality, but on stepping inside, our apprehensions evaporated. Il Vicolo is a lovely little tavern, cozy and familiar with wooden tables and chairs, and an attentive (English-speaking) waitstaff. We immediately felt at home.

The waiter took his time explaining the menu (almost entirely seafood) and by the end of his ten-minute monologue describing each plate in full, our stomachs were grumbling. Soon enough, we were gorging ourselves on delicious, homemade Sicilian food, as delicious as he had made it sound. I had seafood ravioli, generous with little shrimps and mussels, and bathed in a rich tomato sauce. The ravioli were perfectly cooked, and my second plate of grilled swordfish filet was just as good. Jürgen, no fan of seafood, had more limited options. He chose a first plate of fried delicacies followed by spaghetti with an eggplant-based sauce. Eggplant, we’re learning, is a major ingredient in Sicilian cooking.

We had a great time in Il Vicolo and can definitely recommend searching it out for excellent Sicilian seafood. Not only delicious, but it was a good bargain as well. We each had two plates, dessert and a couple glasses of wine for around €30 total.

Location on our Palermo Map
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Our Travel Books Make a Great Christmas Gift (we think)

Palermo isn’t great for people who enjoy jogging. The few sidewalks that exist are useless, usually occupied by cars. Going onto the streets is a dangerous game of chance. And the only park big enough to serve, the Parco della Favorita, is too far outside the city. However, we’ve found a decent bicycle path which goes by the harbor, and have been making use of that. I’ve lost count of how many times we’ve jogged by the Castello a Mare, but this weekend, we finally we decided to check it out.

The Castello a Mare doesn’t look like much from the bike path — just a collection of ruins. But once inside the gate, the scale of the former castle is striking. The date of its construction is unknown, but estimated to be around 1150. For 750 years, it was one of Palermo’s most important lines of defense against pirates and invaders. And during the Spanish rule of Sicily, it served as the seat of the Holy Inquisition.

I wish there was a romantic story of invasion and pillage to explain how the castle has been reduced to rubble, because the truth is just depressing. In 1922, the Port Consortium reached a deal with the city to demolish the castle, in order to claim the land for construction. Citizens and historians were naturally outraged, but by the time their demands were heard, the damage had been done. All that remains today is a gatehouse, a circular tower and the foundations of the moat. For short-sighted greed, one of the city’s most historic treasures was destroyed.

Wandering about the grounds, we were shocked by the callousness which could permit a city to destroy its own heritage. We followed a path which led down into the dried-up moat, and were talking about human folly, when we saw a woman dressed in pink looking down on us from the bank. Well, she wasn’t “looking” so much as “glaring” at us, with her arms crossed and shaking her head. A second later, she disappeared. As we emerged from the moat, the scowl-woman had fetched another employee, who greeted us by screaming “NO! NO! Proibito!!”

There are few things more frustrating than being yelled at for something that’s not your fault. The path down into the moat was open. Stairs led invitingly down, with nary a sign nor indication that using them was not allowed. We tried explaining this to him, but he angrily waved off our protests without listening. Scowl-woman looked on, nodding her head, arms still crossed across her chest. She really taught us! For the rest of our visit to the castle, we were accompanied by the guard. Because we’re so dangerous.

The castle is an interesting bit of history and a sad reflection on human greed, but not one of the most interesting things to do in Palermo. But if you do go, please follow the path down into the moat. Anything you can do to help anger those workers would be much appreciated.

Location on our Palermo Map
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“I hate this! Stupid laundry, do yourself. I don’t know why I’m even here, who cares if I wear clean clothes. What a waste of time. And now I have to wait thirty minutes for the dryer. It’s not fair! I hate my stupid life. I want to kill myself.”

Such were my thoughts as I sat down, flustered and self-righteous, at a café in the Piazza Rivoluzione. It was a sunny day, and I ordered a cappuccino. “Stupid sun”, I thought. “Gonna burn me. Too hot for my stupid jacket! And my chair is wobbly and I bet when she brings me my stupid cappuccino, it will be gross”.

But my cappuccino wasn’t gross. It was delicious. And as I drank it, the wrinkle-folds scarring my forehead began to smooth themselves out. My tensed shoulders relaxed, and the sheet of blood-red through which I had been seeing the world began to raise like the curtains of a theater, revealing a reality to which I had been present, but strangely unaware.

I was in Piazza Rivoluzione, where the 1848 uprising against the Bourbon rule had commenced. An historic corner of the world, today bathed in sun. I was sipping on a cappuccino and reading a newspaper. Sicilian life was in full gear around me, with kids playing soccer in this corner, and a lively discussion between two old bench-sitters in that corner. In the middle of the plaza, a strange fountain supported the statue of the Genius of Palermo, one of the city’s mysterious symbols.

Starting to blush, I realized that my anguished mood was more than a bit indulgent. After I had finished my coffee, I lingered in the plaza for a few more minutes to take in the sun. When I went back to the laundromat, the attendant scarcely recognized me. “Who are you? Where is that angry red-faced gentleman? Why are you whistling?!”

Location on our Palermo Map
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Italian Ice Cream

One of the top sights in Palermo is the Norman Palace, on the western extreme of the old city center. A massive complex built in the 11th century, the palace is still used today as the seat of the Sicilian government. Tourists are allowed in, but understandably restricted to a small section.

The palace is most famous for its Palantine Chapel, added to the complex in 1132 by the Norman King Roger II. Blanketed in mosaics which illuminate Biblical figures and acts of the apostles, the chapel is starkly reminiscent of Monreale’s Cathedral, but smaller and more elegant. Though it was built during Norman rule, both Byzantine and Arab influences were still largely present in Sicily, and the chapel exhibits the styles of all three dynasties. Arabic arches and geometrical patterns, Byzantine mosaics and Norman architecture.

The chapel is impressive, but small, and after a few minutes we continued onto the Royal Apartments. Here, visitors were permitted only in guided groups, and since the tour was in Italian only, we didn’t get much out of it. We started in the spacious Sala d’Ercole, which is today used for the Regional Assembly of Sicily, and moved on through a number of other evocatively-named rooms: Sala Pompeiana, Sala Cinesi, Sala dei Venti. The Sala di Ruggero, or “Roger’s Room” was the most impressive, with mosaics depicting hunting scenes and a gorgeous neoclassical table in the center, made of petrified sequoia.

The hill on which the palace is built was originally the site of Phoenician settlements, the remains of which can still be seen in the basement. Although it’s just a group of stone walls, this is one of the most compelling areas in the castle, thanks to the sheer age of its constructions.

The Palazzo dei Normanni is one of the stops on the Cruise-Ship-Itinerary, and crowds can be dreadful. And thanks to the guaranteed buses of tourists, the entry price (€9) is completely out of proportion with what you can see. We had the annoying sense of being rushed through, and there was very little information for non-Italian speakers. Still if you’ve got some time, you should consider taking a peek inside one of the city’s most historic buildings.

Location on our Palermo Map
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Cactus Pear Jelly

One of the stranger fruits we’ve encountered in Palermo has been the cactus pear, which is sold at just about every market stand in the city. Fico d’India, as it’s known here, is native to Sicily, despite its name, and a popular snack with Palermitani. We had to try it.

When we bought them at a fruit stand, the spikes had already been skinned off. Mostly. I thought it’d be safe to handle the fruit like a ball, tossing it into the air and catching it. And for the next couple hours, I was picking the tiny, nearly invisible thorns out of my hands. Lesson 1: never trust a cactus fruit.

Once I had healed up, it was time to try the fico out. We sliced off the ends, as we’d seen vendors at the market do it, then made a slice lengthwise through the skin. After peeling, we were left with a bright red fruit. We chopped it up into a few chunks and I took my revenge on the prickly fruit by consuming it. It’s got a sweet, melon-like taste and the flesh is full of seeds — so many that spitting them out one-by-one would be hopeless. Luckily, they’re edible.

I don’t know if I’ll ever add the cactus fruit to my list of favorites, what with the seeds and pain, but it was certainly interesting to try.

Other weird fruit we tried: The Chirimoya – Mark Twain’s Favorite Fruit

One of the most photographed objects in Palermo is the giant, snow-white fountain in the Piazza Pretoria, just southeast of the Quatro Canti. The fountain sits in front of City Hall and has become a symbol of governmental corruption. Disgust with Palermo’s legendary malfeasance, in addition to the fountain’s abundant nudity, are the two reasons that Plaza Pretoria is known among citizens as the Plaza of Shame (Piazza della Vergogna).

Shameful or not, the fountain is stunning, especially after a recent refurbishment which restored its shining whiteness. Built for a Spanish nobleman in Florence, it was sold and transported to Palermo in 1573. The massive size of the city’s new treasure required the demolition of a few houses around the Piazza Pretoria, but that was a small price to pay for such an impressive new plaything.

With legions of statues representing mythological Greek gods and fantastical creatures, and a diameter measuring over 36 meters, the fountain takes a while to fully admire. Three tiered levels ascend to a column atop which a likeness of Dionysus sits (surely not helping with the perception of corruption). With bridges and stairs, the fountain appears to invite climbing and explored, but a fence keeps onlookers well away.

Location on our Palermo Map
-Sicilian Cook Books

Car Rentals in Sicily

We’ve been in Palermo for almost two months now, and although we’ve gotten familiar with the main streets, the winding alleys still offer endless opportunities to get lost. And we often do (sometimes even on purpose). There’s nothing like the bewildered frustration of being absolutely without orientation, to inspire a bewildered attack of random photography…

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After a couple hours spent wandering the alleyways of Bagheria, we had worked up quite an appetite, and sought out a restaurant recommended by a couple readers — the Antica Osteria Zza’ Maria. The word “Zza” alone was enticement enough to visit; it looks like a typo, or the sound a flamboyant snake might make, but it’s actually Sicilian for “Aunt”.

The door to the restaurant was shut tight when we arrived, but after a couple timid knocks, it was swung wide open by the owner. He seemed thrilled to have us, and I half expected him to give us hugs before leading us to our table. Without asking, he brought us an appetizer of eggs and zibibbo, a sweet white wine produced on the island of Pantelleria (off the southwestern Sicilian coast, closer to Africa than Italy).

As we were scarfing down the eggs, we listened to a bit of the history of the restaurant. It had begun life at the turn of the century as a wine shop, but when the proprietor died in World War One, his bereaved widow (Aunt Maria) turned it into a tavern. It was the first of its kind in Bagheria, and an immediate success, popular with artists and intellectuals.

After concluding this discourse, he told us what we would be eating. Note the distinction: “told” and not “asked”. We’ve found this to be a common practice in Sicily, especially in less touristy spots, and one I’ve come to appreciate. When the house recommends your plate, it’s almost guaranteed to be great, and the stress of decision-making is removed. It’s also more familiar — when you’re invited for lunch at your aunt’s house, you eat what you’re given.

As I knew it would be, my frutti di mar seafood pasta was incredible. Fresh mussels, shrimps and a lovely, light cream sauce over homemade linguini. Jürgen, disinclined to seafood, was presented with a rich ragù. Passing on dessert wasn’t an option, I mean it simply wasn’t a choice we were allowed to make, and he set down two giant cannoli in front of us which we dutifully gobbled down.

It was an incredible meal, in a comfortable, friendly atmosphere. If you find yourself hungry in Bagheria, head over to Zza’ Maria for some excellent home cooking.

Location on our Sicily Map
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Bagheria Impressions

Without a doubt, the top touristic sight in the town of Bagheria is Villa Palagonia. A architectural masterpiece and an ode to eccentricity, this building is most famous for its flock of “monsters”; an army of gargoyles who adorn the garden walls.

The house was built in 1715, and immediately hailed as an architectural achievement, and one of the finest works of Sicilian Baroque on the island. But the Villa didn’t acquire the strange touch which made it world-famous until 1749, when the deranged Prince of Palagonia ordered a set of gargoyles to line its garden walls. Legions of dragons, soldiers, hunchbacks and freaks of nature look down on visitors from atop stony perches. According to legend, the most freakish faces are meant to caricature the many lovers of the prince’s promiscuous wife.

Inside, the villa is less eccentric but equally impressive. Paintings of the trials of Hercules line an oval-shaped vestibule, and you can step inside a room intriguingly named The Hall of Mirrors. This was the ballroom, and its marble walls are colorfully decorated with colorful birds and portraits of the various lords of Europe.

Location on our Sicily Map
- Bagheria Hotels

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Occupying a bluff fifteen kilometers east of Palermo, Bagheria enjoys a privileged position with views of both the Mediterranean and the capital. Its name either descends from the Phoenician Bayharia (“land that descends toward the sea”) or the Arabic Bāb al-Gerib (“windy gateway”). Both descriptions are apt.

In the 18th century, the elite of Palermo chose Bagheria as the place to escape city life and erect their villas. These remain into the present day, and give the town of 55,000 a peculiar feel. Gorgeous Baroque and Neoclassical villas with poetic names like Palagonia, Spedalotto and Serradifalco are spotted throughout the town, hidden among ugly newer constructions thrown together in the post-war years.

The fantastic Villa Palagonia is the big touristic draw in the city, and we’ll be writing about it soon. Just outside the town is the Villa Católica, which houses a museum dedicated to the painter Renato Guttuso. Besides that, though, there isn’t a lot to see in Bagheria, and a walk around the town doesn’t require more than a couple hours. We enjoyed ourselves, though; the street life was lively, and we particularly appreciated the pedestrian-only zone; something Palermo itself is in desperate need of.

In Sicilian, Bagheria is called Baarìa, which is also the name of an excellent film by Giuseppe Tornatore. Baarìa opened the 2009 Venice Film Festival, and was nominated for a Golden Globe. Following the life of a man from Bagheria from youth through old age, the film provides an interesting lesson on Sicilian politics and history.

Bagheria on our Sicily Map
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