Travel Laundry Paper Soap

With one week remaining in Sicily, we realized there were still a lot of sights on the island that we couldn’t possibly skip. So, we rented a car and set out on a final road trip. First stop: Villa Romana del Casale.

The world’s most comprehensive and exquisite set of Roman mosaics is found in the middle of Sicily, at the archaeological site known as Villa Romana del Casale. The specifics of the villa’s history are largely lost to history, but experts have dated its origin from around the 4th century AD. It’s believed to have been the hunting lodge for Roman aristocrats, possibly owned by an Emperor such as Maximianus Herculius. But there aren’t enough clues to say for certain.

The tiled floors are amazing; bright, colorful and largely complete. The mosaics look as though they were laid down one century ago, not seventeen; a miracle for which we have to thank nature. Mother Earth recognized the historic and cultural value of the lodge better than medieval humanity ever could have, and buried the villa underneath a mudslide sometime in the 12th century. The site was forgotten under the soft earth for 700 years, until its excavation in 1929.

Visitors are able to see a number of rooms laid out with the incredible mosaic floors. The Corridor of the Great Hunt is probably the most impressive. Here, soldiers battle with tigers, then lead them onto ships bound for Rome, where they’re to fight against gladiators in Roman Colosseums. Other scenes depict a group of soldiers tries to pull a hippopotamus out of the water, and a wounded lion jumping onto a soldier.

The most famous mosaics are the so-called Bikini Girls. In a smallish, square room, ten wonderfully preserved and scantily clad Roman beauties are engaging in various athletics, such as discus-throwing, running, and playing with a ball. One girl, apparently the winner, has been presented with a golden crown.

We were lucky enough to visit Villa Romana during the low season, when the number of other tourists is manageable. This is one of the most popular sites in Sicily, and a destination for almost every tour bus. If the size of the car park and the overwhelming number of stands selling cheesy trinkets are any indication, the place must be unbearable in the summer. But regardless, for those with any interest in ancient art or history, Villa Romana del Casale is unmissable.

Location on our Sicily Map
-Make your own Mosaics

A Visit To Palermo’s Puppet Museum

The art of puppetry has a long history in Sicily. Since the Middle Ages, puppet shows have been one of the island’s most popular forms of entertainment. Thanks to the advent of television and radio, the shows are less important than they once were, but Palermo still boasts a few places to catch a performance. We visited the Teatro Ippogrifo, near the Quattro Canti, and had a blast with a story that was loud, funny and surprisingly violent.

Most Sicilian puppet shows are based on the medieval legends of knights and princesses. Our story began with a knight sleeping under a tree. Awoken by the cries of his beloved, who has been snatched away by an evil maharajah, he undertakes a mission to free her, which will bring him to India through the decimated corpses of his foes. It was all in Italian, but the plot wasn’t exactly difficult to follow.

The show was performed by two puppeteers. Each marionette was attached to a long wooden stick, which the performers held out over the stage. After the show, I had a chance to hold one of the puppets; they’re made of wood, wearing armor, and are really heavy! I can’t imagine holding that stick for a half-hour, let alone doing the voice work. No, my puppet show would be a boring affair. “Alas, I cannot go on!” would say my noble prince, laying on the floor three minutes into the story. “To sleep, perchance to dream!” The End.

Luckily, I wasn’t in charge of the show we watched. Our knight was involved in numerous battles, which were my favorite sequences. Because they were hilarious. The opponents would fling themselves at each other, over and over, with swords rattling and clanking, and the boots of the puppeteers stomping on the wooden stage. Sometimes, a head would fly off. One puppet was carved in two by the hero’s vicious blade. It was great.

If you’re in town, definitely try and make it to a show. And while walking around, keep your eyes open for the workshops of puppet makers, especially in the alleys just east of Teatro Massimo. Whether they’re carving new puppets or hammering out their armor, they usually don’t mind if you stop and watch for a bit.

Location of Teatro Ippogrifo on our Palermo Map
-The Masks of Bolivia

Great Hotels in Palermo

We had been in Palermo for over two months by the time we finally got around to visiting its Gallery of Modern Art. I don’t know what kept us; perhaps the over-abundance of things to do in the city, perhaps a personal aversion to modern art. But upon finally visiting the collection, we were blown away. This was the best museum we’ve visited in Palermo.

The Gallería d’Arte Moderna does everything right. It concentrates on Sicilian works, particularly those of Palermitano artists, and takes visitors on a tour which progresses from the late 1800s to the mid-20th century. And the museum makes perfect use of its beautiful setting. We were almost as captivated by the converted convent, with its courtyard and spacious rooms, as we were by the art.

Fourteen rooms are spread across three floors, all organized by a common theme, such as The Long Sunset of Neoclassical Mythology, or The Fortune of the Mediterranean Landscape. There is plenty of information in fluent, error-free English (a minor miracle in Sicily) and the chronological journey is interesting and easy to follow. Sculptures and busts join gorgeous impressionist landscapes and portraiture in constructing an excellent overview of the island’s modern artistic history.

The subjects are almost entirely Sicilian, and our appreciation was definitely deepened by the fact we’d already spent so much time here. We were able to recognize the salt fields of Trapani, and the city scenes of Palermo. We knew some of the history, so paintings of Garibaldi or the War of the Vespers weren’t introducing foreign concepts. But even had we been total Sicilian neophytes, we’d have loved the museum.

If you have any interest in art, the Galería d’Arte Moderna is worth an hour of your time. At €7, admission is a bit pricey, but not more so than any of the city’s other museums, and definitely worth it.

Galería d’Arte Moderna – Website
Location on our Palermo Map
-Short Term Apartment Rental in Palermo

List of Palermo Hotels

One of the finest palaces in Palermo is the Palazzo Abatellis, found on Via Alloro in the neighborhood of La Kalsa. The massive building is host to the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia, which displays Sicilian art dating as far back as the 12th century.

The palace was built in the late 15th century as a private residence for the master of the port, Francesco Abatellis. It’s one of the best examples of Catalan-Gothic architecture on the island. From what I understand (ie. from what I read on the internet five minutes ago), “Catalan”-Gothic differs from the regular sort of Gothic in that it emphasizes width and depth as opposed to height, and uses wide, smooth surfaces to make the best use of Mediterranean light. Abatellis is certainly wide and deep, and its ample space is put to good use as home to the Regional Gallery.

The collection brings together mostly religious works from centuries past. Paintings on wood from the 1300s and 1400s, ceramic vases, sculptures and busts, crucifixes and triptychs, and paintings occupy three floors. The gallery benefited greatly from an 1866 decree which banned many religious orders in Sicily — as churches were closed, officials were present to requisition (or steal) the best art.

The most famous work in the museum is the fresco The Triumph of Death, by an unknown artist, which dates from around 1466 and originally hung in the Palazzo Sclafani, near the Palazzo Normanni. An entire hall of the palace is dedicated to this haunting painting, which depicts death riding through a collection of people from all swaths of society, shooting them with arrows. The message is clear: death comes for us all, poor and rich alike. Unfortunately, the fresco was sliced into four quadrants to facilitate the move to Abatellis, and the damage is evident, with peeling and rot setting in along the cuts.

Entry to Palazzo Abatellis costs €8, which is steep, even considering the great amount of art to see. I suppose that they need to be able to pay all the people they have employed as guards. There were, without exaggerating, at least 50 workers in the palace, two or three to a room, just sitting around chatting with each other. It became a running joke to us, betting on how many “guards” would be in the next hall.

Museo Regionale Abatellis – Website
Location on our Palermo Map
- Follow Us on Twitter

Sicilian Arts

Fans of ancient painting, sculpture and architecture have no shortage of opportunities to indulge their passion in Palermo, a city whose artistic tradition stretches back centuries. But for those looking for something a bit more modern, we recommend heading out to the Centro d’Arte Piana dei Colli, in a marvelous villa just north of the city.

The post-war decades were a difficult time for Palermo. Many fine buildings were left to ruin, as the aristocracy had lost their fortunes and left their estates for more humble abodes. The Villa Alliata Cardillo, found halfway between Palermo and Mondello, was no exception. For over 50 years, this magnificent villa had completely abandoned until a comprehensive renovation in 2007, thanks to funds from Europe and the dedication of the family’s last living heir.

Part of the deal to secure funds was to open the Villa to the public, and thus was born the Centro d’Arte Piana dei Colli. Focused on frequently changing exhibits which make use of cutting-edge technology, and a permanent collection heavy on multimedia and video documentaries, the Centro d’Arte leads visitors through the Villa, making wonderful use of its gorgeous home.

We went to the opening of an exhibit called Micro Cosmi which was an eclectic blend of video, painting and photography featuring the work of four different artists. Among them was Hapé Schreiberhuber, who got on stage during the opening and, bouncing around and applying paint spasmodically, painted a large canvas to the rhythms of the saxophone player standing next to him.

If you’re without a car, the Villa is difficult to reach, but is worth checking out both for the art and to see how the upper echelon lived in 18th century Palermo. Best of all, entrance is free.

Centro d’Arte Piani dei Colli – Website
Via Faraone n.2
Location on our Palermo Map
Tel: 091.6790853
-Sicily Photography

More Amazing Cathedrals in Sicily: Palermo and Monreale

The Piazza del Duomo in Syracuse is one of the more spacious plazas that we’ve seen while in Sicily, and definitely the most serene. The piazza is framed by gorgeous palaces, churches, cafes and the fascinating cathedral, and there’s no traffic to worry about so you can keep stepping backwards to better gawk at the beauty without having to worry about getting run over. We spent a long, mild evening at one of the bars, drinking wine and silently soaking up the plaza’s peaceful beauty.

The location of the cathedral has been a spot of religious importance since the days of the Greeks, who built a temple to Athena here. The current baroque facade dates from reconstruction necessary after a 1693 earthquake, and belies the true age of the church. But deceptions vanish once you enter the cathedral, where ancient Doric columns delineate the asps. Much of the original structure remains, and the effect is startling. Although you’re in a church ostensibly dedicated to the Catholic faith, it’s impossible to ignore the fact that it was once the domain of much older gods.

After spending some time in the cathedral, we took another quick wine break, then moseyed over to the church of Santa Lucia alla Badia, built on the very spot where Saint Lucy was martyred in 304 AD. This church has been recently restored, and its centerpiece is one of Sicily’s greatest artistic treasures: Carvaggio’s Buiral of Saint Lucy.

The evening was still pleasantly cool when we left the Santa Lucia, and we had time for another round at the cafe before finding a spot to eat dinner. The bars were filling up with couples and families who’d just finished their Christmas shopping, and as we munched down generous servings of antipasti with our wine, we wondered whether or not Syracuse might have made a good base for 91 days. A lot smaller than Palermo, sure, but the relaxed way of life and gorgeous city center leave little to be desired.

Location of the Cathedral on our Sicily Map
-Book Your Syracuse Hotel Here

The Genius of Garraffo

Hey “Genius”, there’s a snake biting your nipple.

An aging monarch seated on his throne and holding a snake, the Genius of Palermo is the mysterious emblem of the city. Representations of the Genius appear eight times within Palermo: six sculptures and two paintings. No one knows where it originated or what it truly symbolizes, but it has come to epitomize the city itself.

The snake is a symbol of knowledge, and many speculate that it represents Palermo’s tumultuous relationships with foreign powers. The knowledge and technological advances brought by the city’s numerous invaders comes with a price. In the statue of the Genius of Garraffo, the snake is feeding off the monarch’s chest. The snake is the foreign presence and, while it eats from “Palermo”, is also imbuing it with knowledge.

We went “genius hunting”, and found five of the eight representations scattered about the city.

The Genius of the Port

The Genius of Palazzo Pretorio

The Genius of Piazza Rivoluzione

The Genius of Villa Guilia

Which were we missing?

The Genius of Villagrazia – Found at the entrance to Villa Fernandez, in the peripheral neighborhood of Villagrazia. Genius-hunting is very important, but not worth an hour walk!

The Genius of the Mosaic – Found above the entrance to the Palatine Chapel, in the Palazzo Normanni. If only we’d have known when we visited. Genius-hunting is very important, but not worth another €9!

The Genius of the Apoteosi di Palermo – Found on the ceiling fresco of the ballroom in Palazzo Isnello, in the Piazza Borsa. Frustratingly close to our apartment, but closed. Genius-hunting is very important, but not worth breaking and entering!

- Book Your Hotel in Italy Here

Music From Italy

I would say it was a pretty successful night. We had discovered Mikalsa, a cool bar within walking distance of our apartment, and heard an incredible concert by Renzo Rubino, a local artist trying to make it big. Plus, we became instant addicts of Mikalsa’s home-brewed beer called Panormus, in honor of Palermo’s original Greek name.

Renzo Rubio makes an odd kind of music. He’s a charistmatic, larger-framed guy with a strong, gravelly voice and mad skills on the piano, and the performance was proudly “guitar-free”. His backing band consisted of violins, drums and accompanying singers, and they produced an strangely festive sound, somehow reminiscent of Barnum & Bailey’s.

Mikalsa was a perfect venue for the concert, with cozy furniture and a good crowd. I’ve already mentioned their home-brewed beer, but allow me to do so again, because thinking about it bathes my mind in happiness. Like so much of the food in Palermo, the beer was sweet. And it was strong; I don’t know what the alcohol content is, but we were buzzing after just two rounds.

If you’re looking for a cool place to hang out and perhaps catch a show, definitely check out Mikalsa Bar. And keep an eye out for Renzo Rubino’s concerts; lots of fun.

Location of Mikalsa Bar on our Palermo Map
Facebook Link: Renzo Rubino & MiKalsa Bar

Another collector we have visited: Nancy from Eggs N Tricities

Some artists work with clay, others with watercolors. Many use spray paint cans and empty urban landscapes, while others busy themselves with pastels. And, as we’ve now learned, there are some artists whose medium consists of discarded junk found on street corners. Maurizio Ruggiano belongs to the latter group, and we had the chance to visit him in his tastefully cluttered apartment in La Kalsa.

One man’s trash is another’s treasure; a well-known maxim which is visually appreciable in Maurizio’s living space. With an attuned eye, Maurizio scouts the plentiful trash heaps of Palermo for his treasures, which he then works into his pieces. Broken plastic toys join items decidedly less cute, such as petrified cat corpses, in a surreal collection which extends throughout the apartment.

Maurizio also uses photography and odd contraptions in his work; I suppose his medium can best be defined as “ideas”. The finished pieces are often introspective in nature, with a lot of religious imagery (though he’s not religious himself). He was excited to tell us about an upcoming project which will be displayed in the Oratorio di San Lorenzo, sometime in April, 2012. Taking inspiration from Hindu sand mandala, Maurizio intends to display a project he’s been working on for over a decade, and let it be slowly destroyed.

Walking back to our apartment after meeting Maurizio, I caught myself eyeing a junk pile, wondering if I’d be able to spot something worth collecting. Gingerly poking at the mess, I found a circular piece of colored glass and was just about to snatch it up, before realizing it was partly covered in shit. Hmm. Best leave the trash-picking to the experts.

- Hunt for treasures here

Nativity Scenes From Italy

From the regal statues of the Quattro Canti, to the delicate stucco work inside the Oratorio di San Lorenzo, it’s apparent that sculpture has always played an important role in Palermo’s art scene. We had the chance to meet one of the city’s modern sculpture artists, Daniele Franzella, who showed us into his apartment and workshop.

With that agreeable openness to strangers which we’ve so often encountered in Palermo, Daniele ushered us into his home, encouraging us to eat, ask questions and take pictures. The place, which he shares with his wife and two children, was full of examples of his past work — though not as full as one might expect. Daniele manages to sell most of his pieces, and there wasn’t enough left to clutter things up.

Daniele works in a variety of mediums: terracotta, ceramics and fiberglass. We had seen some of his terracotta pieces online, figures which seem to have sprung to life from the pages of a comic book. The only one he had left was Bianco di Fondo (White Background), an amusing portrayal of a sad-sack guy with an identical guardian angel accompanying him. His fiberglass pieces were also great — my favorite was a white case in which to carry a woman, with a plush interior as though made for a guitar. He explained that he created it for his wife; the absence inside the case makes him think of her, and the hard shell symbolizes protection. Very cool.

We walked over to the workshop where Daniele spends his days toiling, and a place in which he’s spent an enormous portion of his life. Since he was born, 33 years ago, he’s been a constant presence in the headquarters of his mother, Angela Tripi, a sculptress of some regard in her own right. She focuses on ceramic pieces for nativity scenes, and has achieved a steady customer base across Europe for the gorgeously detailed figures. When we visited their workshop, in late October, production was in full gear and about ten artists were hard at work churning out wise men, farm animals and angels. Daniele’s wife was among them, painting the face and clothes on one of the Virgin Mary’s.

With so many people packed into the shop, and especially considering that they were boisterous Sicilians, eating and laughing while inviting us to do the same, I wondered if Daniele didn’t find it a claustrophobic place to work. But he clearly felt at ease; some of the artists in this workshop have known him since he was an infant. And there’s no arguing with the work that both he and his mother manage to produce.

If you get a chance while in Palermo, swing by their small shop, which is found in a gorgeous courtyard just meters from the Cathedral. Alongside their own work, they sell all manner of ceramics from around Sicily, and the store has a great collection to check out.

Location of their Shop on our Palermo Map