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If you’re an adult human living in the 21st century, you have at some point in your life suffered a catastrophic computer crash. You’ve been faced with the choice of whether to try and recover your system, or just start fresh with a clean install. And you’ve probably learned that, almost always, the best option is to start clean and reinstall from scratch. Restorations rarely work and, even if you’re able to cobble your computer back to a semi-functional state, there are usually problems. No, it’s best to bite the bullet, lose some work, and start over. For metaphorical proof from history, just look at the Sicilian city of Noto.

In 1693, Noto was flattened along with much of the island’s eastern coast, by a devastating earthquake. The most powerful seismic event in Italian history cost Sicily over 5% of its entire population, and Noto was among the hardest hit. The city fathers looked at the damage, Blue Screen of Death, and decided to go for a fresh re-install. A totally new operating system. The new Noto would be built from scratch, on an empty hill miles away from the rubble of old Noto.

When starting over from scratch, you have the giddy opportunity to do it up right. And Noto took full advantage of its fresh canvas. Famous architects and city planners were brought in, and every aspect of the new town was designed in an artistic coordination that strove for a sense of harmony. Everything from palaces to churches to civic buildings were constructed from the same materials, with the same colors. The roads were laid out intelligently, making the best use of the new town’s topography. And everything was decorated and finished in the extravagant style of the Baroque, then at the height of its popularity in Italy.

The re-install was a success. Centuries later, Noto still counts among the most beautiful cities in Italy. We walked through the Porto Reale, which serves as a grand entrance to the town center, at exactly noon on December 8th. Through dumb luck, we had chosen to visit on a holiday, the Immacolata, and all of Noto had turned out in their finest clothing on the steps of the Church of San Francesco to watch a Christmas wreath be placed around a statue.

For the next couple hours, we wandered through Noto. The cathedral with its wide steps leading up the hill. The Church of San Carlo where we gained the view from the bell tower. The Palazzo Villadorata with strange creatures like griffins, dolphins and lions supporting balconies. All the buildings the same dusty golden color which glowed beautifully under the sunlight. We claimed the last table the popular Osteria Cármine, where half the town and their fifty-thousand kids had decided to eat, and enjoyed a raucous meal of pasta and cannoli.

In short, we had a perfect day in Noto, and we would have loved to stay the night. We didn’t get to see the ruins of Ancient Noto, which can still be visited. And it would have been nice to spend the evening hours for the sunset, to see how the town’s golden hue changes underneath the waning light. Sigh. But regardless of how much time you can spend there, the town of Noto, a tribute to the preservation of humanity and its artistic spirit, is worth a trip.

Location on our Sicily Map
- Hotels in Noto

Syracuse Hostels

The city of Syracuse is packed with beautiful baroque churches and stunning Greek monuments, still standing in defiance of the centuries. But the building which dominates the city’s skyline was built just seventeen years ago. Say hello to the Santuario della Madonna delle Lácrime. Sigh. They just don’t build them like they used to.

For four days in the summer of 1953, an image of Madonna shed tears in Syracuse. News spread quickly and pilgrims from around the world converged upon Syracuse. Almost immediately, plans were hatched to create a suitable home for the miraculous image. Construction began on the sanctuary in 1966, and would last almost 30 years. In 1994, none other than Pope John Paul came to inaugurate it.

Jürgen’s attracted to modern architectural monstrosities like a moth to flame, so of course we had to visit. The sanctuary’s bizarre shape is meant to resemble a teardrop from heaven hitting the ground, but to me it looks more like a circus big-top. Just less colorful and without any elephants. The bottom floor is darkly lit, and resembles a cave; an ancient Greek road was uncovered while building the church, and its ruins were left intact. There’s a little museum of religious curiosities, filled with things like back-braces which could be thrown off because Little Timmy prayed so devoutly to the miraculous virgin.

Upstairs is a proper church, which is actually quite stunning. When you’re inside of the church, the tent-like design is an advantage, lifting your eyes straight to the ceiling’s peak, which seems to almost touch heaven. There was a service in progress when we visited, so we didn’t linger.

Location on our Sicily Map
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Learn Hebrew Today

Syracuse had been under the control of the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines and the Arabs, but was always home to a healthy Jewish population. As in many of the European cities to which Jews emigrated following the diaspora, the ruling hierarchies were grudgingly tolerant of them and their religion. That is, until the arrival of the Spanish who decreed the total expulsion of Jews from their kingdom, in 1492.

Syracuse’s Jewish population had a history of almost 2000 years in the city, and when they were forced to leave, many assumed that they’d soon be able to return. And, so they decided to hide their holy mikvah by covering it with earth.

The concealment was so successful that centuries would pass before the baths were rediscovered. About fifteen years ago, while digging into the basement underneath the Hotel Algilà for maintenance works, the ancient Hebrew Baths were found. It’s thought to be the largest and most ancient mikvah in Europe, still in pristine condition underneath the hotel. Without knowing the history or their amazing state of conservation, we decided to visit and were blown away.

The baths are fed by an underground stream. The water for the rituals had to be constantly pure, untouched by human hands, which the natural entries and exits in the limestone walls permitted. Women were compelled to visit them after every menstrual cycle, or after birth, while men would go to the baths only before important religious ceremonies. The Syracuse mikvah consists of five tubs, three carved out in the center of the room, and two in private side chambers.

The baths’ state of preservation was astounding and the softly lit rooms were hauntingly beautiful. During our visit to Syracuse, we had expected to see Greek ruins and beautiful Spanish churches, but encountering Europe’s oldest Jewish mikvah was an interesting surprise.

Location on our Sicily Map
- Syracuse Hostels and BnBs

Book Your Syracuse Hostel Here

The moment you cross the bridge onto the island Ortigia, where the ancient center of Syracuse is found, you are confronted with exactly what the word “ancient” truly means. The ruins of the Temple of Apollo greet visitors at the island’s gateway, and serve as the perfect introduction to this city, so rich in myth and legend.

The Tempio di Apollo dates from the 6th century BC, according to an inscription found on the ruins. It’s the oldest surviving monument on Sicily and one of the oldest Doric temples in the world. A few of the massive columns and most of the eastern facade are, amazingly, still standing despite the passage of over 2500 tumultuous years. After the departure of the Greeks, the Byzantines turned the temple into a church, and the Arabs into a mosque. The Normans would work it into another church, and it would eventually serve as a barracks for Spanish troops.

Apollo was the son of Zeus, and his twin sister Artemis also plays an important role in the mythology of Syracuse. In her desperate escape from the lustful river god Alpheus, the beautiful water nymph Arethusa sought assistance from Artemis. The goddess took pity on Arethusa and, seeking to disguise her, transformed her into a natural spring. But Alpheus wouldn’t be denied. Entering from the sea, into which the spring flowed, he was finally able to mingle his waters with Arethusa’s. Kinky.

Found on Ortigia’s eastern coast, just a few minutes from the cathedral, the Fountain of Arethusa is the spot where this godly intermingling took place. The natural spring which feeds this small lagoon was a place of significant religious importance for the Cult of Artemis, and is today filled with papyrus plants and swans. A number of cafes and restaurants surround the fountain, and it’s the perfect place to take a long break and prepare for yet more sightseeing in Syracuse.

Location of the temple of Apollo on our Sicily Map
Location of the fountain of Arethusa on our Sicily Map
-List of Syracuse Hotels

Syracuse Hotels

Once upon a time, Syracuse was the most important city-state in the Greek Empire and most powerful in the world. Ruled by famous tyrants like Dionysius the Elder, and home to Archimedes, one of history’s greatest mathematicians and thinkers, the influence of Syracuse extended across the Mediterranean. The city’s influence waned only during the Arab occupation of Sicily, when power was ceded to Palermo.

Visiting Syracuse is like taking a trip back into the ancient world. Greek ruins thousands of years still claim space around Roman, Byzantine, Jewish and more modern Baroque constructions. The entire old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you can’t hardly walk a block without seeing another noteworthy building, ruin, fountain or church.

We were staying on the island Ortigia, which constitutes the old town of Syracuse, where the great majority of sites are concentrated. Traffic is restricted here, and walking around the island’s quiet, narrow lanes was a pleasure. From the moment we arrived, we fell under the city’s spell — and considering that the ruins of the Temple of Apollo (from 570 BC) were the first thing we saw, that must be understandable.

With only a couple days to explore Syracuse and the surrounding area, we hardly rested. Luckily, we didn’t want to. Even when you’re exhausted, it’s easy to be spurred on by the fact that a massive, three thousand year old Greek Amphitheater is next on the itinerary. We saw a lot, and over the next few days, will be posting about our short trip away from Palermo.

Syracuse on our Sicily Map
-Sicilian History Books