The Albergheria is the oldest neighborhood in Palermo. This is where the Phoenicians founded the city, and it hosts the royal palace which all the city’s rulers have called home. Despite this rich history, today’s Albergheria is one of the most run-down sections of Palermo. Nowhere else is the juxtaposition of dilapidated housing and exquisite historic buildings quite so jarring.

The Albergheria occupies the southwest quadrant delineated by the Quattro Canti, and has more than its share of artistic treasures. The Palazzo Normanni, the Casa Professa, the churches of San Giovanni degli Eremiti and San Giuseppe dei Teatini, and the Palazzo Sclafani are just some of the architectural highlights. In the past, it was home to Palermo’s Jewish population, before they were kicked off the island in 1492.

The neighborhood was heavily damaged during Allied air raids in World War II, and has never fully recovered. Cheap housing went up around the tiny alleys and a large immigrant population moved in to take advantage of the low rents. Today, a visit to the Albergheria almost feels like a trip to another continent. Sri Lankans and Africans dominate sections of the neighborhood, and have set up shops and restaurants which are decidedly non-Italian in flavor.

One place in the Albergheria that definitely has Italian credentials is the Ballaró Market, which competes with Il Capo’s as the best in town. Stretched out between the churches of San Nicolò and Carmine, this market has everything you could possibly need for the kitchen. And on the corner of Via Nunzio Nasi is a guy selling the best street food we’ve had in Palermo — panelle, rascature and crocchè, packed into paninis.

The Albergheria is one of those rare neighborhoods which changes its face every time you turn a corner. Will you find a gorgeous church, an African hair salon selling weaves, a market stand hawking six-foot zucchini, or a Bollywood movie store? Despite the urban decay, and in some ways because of it, the Albergheria is an exciting place to spend some time.

Location on our Palermo Map
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“Coriandolo?” The market seller was looking at me with a strange expression, and I thought maybe I was just pronouncing it wrong. “Cori-AN-dolo? Cilantro?”

Apparently, cilantro isn’t an herb much used in Sicilian cooking. The stand in the Vucciria Market had piles of basil, sage and oregano, but the seller had never heard of cilantro. Still, he was determined to help me out, and asked if I would recognize it by sight. “I think so, probably”. Producing herb after herb from the back of his store, he held out branches for me to sniff and inspect.

“It’s really not so important”, I eventually said. “I can take basil instead”. He waved off this suggestion as utter nonsense. If it’s cilantro I wanted, he was going to get me cilantro. Taking me by the arm, we walked over to another stand, whose seller was a bit younger and knew some English. He understood what I wanted, but didn’t have any, either. The two consulted for awhile, then led me to a third store packed with spices. Again, no dice.

While three Italian market sellers were discussing and debating the existence of cilantro, I looked on dumbfounded. They must have decided that it was hopeless because the conversation had, at some point, switched to football. Walking back to the original stand with the owner, we settled on parsley as a substitute, and he apologized for his inability to locate cilantro. But I’d just had a personalized tour of the Vucciria Market and participated in a bit of Palermo street life! I couldn’t have been happier.

The next time I feel bored or lonely, I’m going return and ask for wasabi.

Sadly, the Vucciria Market has lately become a pale reflection of its former self. Guidebooks breathlessly describe Vucciria as the city’s most colorful and exciting market, but today there are just a handful of stands. With renovations being done on a lot of the neighborhood’s buildings, many of the vendors closed up shop, and no effort was made to retain them. The market is still worth walking through, but don’t expect the boisterous carnival atmosphere you’ve read about. Since it’s so close to our apartment, we’re there daily — you can still find everything you need for a great home-cooked meal. Everything except cilantro.

Location on our Palermo Map

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Stepping into the neighborhood just behind the somber bulk of Palermo’s Cathedral feels like entering another country. An Arabic one, to be precise. Il Capo is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, and has managed to retain a distinctly Moorish influence in its streets and market.

Il Capo occupies the northwestern quadrant of Palermo’s historic center demarcated by the Quattro Canti, and reveals its charms like a jack-in-the-box. The first hour we spent walking around, we were unimpressed. The streets were narrow and photogenic, and had strange names like Via Sedie Volanti (“Flying Seats”) and Scippateste (which I can best translate as “Head Snatcher”), but there wasn’t much life.

But then: POP. As soon as we came upon the Piazza del Monte and Via Sant’Agostino, Il Capo burst out of its box. A busy market with vendors hawking everything from espresso makers to swordfish greeted us. Shopping around for the pine nuts and basil needed for pesto, we quickly discovered the neighborhood’s charms. A wedding was taking place in the church, and preparations for a weekend festival were underway. People seemed in unnaturally good moods; a barber and the customer he was shaving waved us in and asked us to take their picture. Random, but sure, why not?

Next to the barber, we found a bakery with white tiles and huge ovens in the back. I don’t know if we’re just having good luck, or perhaps are conditioned to dealing with more guarded Latin Americans, but people here are extraordinarily gracious to tourists. When we timidly asked if we could see the bread being made, the woman in charge immediately said, “Certo!! Entrate!”, and ushered us in.

A couple days later, we returned to Il Capo to check out the festival. The church and adjacent streets were decked out in lights extremely reminiscent of those from Valencia’s incredible Fallas festival. Unsurprising, since the best lights from Fallas are organized by Italian companies.

Morning is the best time to visit Il Capo, when the market is at its most hectic. But regardless of the hour, this strange little neighborhood is worth a look.

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