Adventures, anecdotes and advice from three months exploring Palermo
The Castello a Mare doesn't look like much from the bike path; just a collection of ruins. But once inside the gate, the scale of the former castle is striking. The date of its construction is unknown, but estimated to be around 1150. For 750 years, it was one of Palermo's most important lines of defense against pirates and invaders. And during the Spanish rule of Sicily, it served as the seat of the Holy Inquisition.
Sipping on a cappuccino in the Piazza Rivoluzione, the place where the 1848 uprising against the French began, I came to the realization that despite my angry mood and annoying stress of everyday life, things could be worse.
One of the top sights in Palermo is the Norman Palace, on the western extreme of the old city center. A massive complex built in the 11th century, the palace is still used today as the seat of the Sicilian government. Tourists are allowed in, but understandably restricted to a small section.
One of the stranger fruits we've encountered in Palermo has been the cactus pear, which is sold at just about every market stand in the city. Fico d'India is native to Sicily, despite its name, and a popular snack with Palermitani. We had to try it.
One of the most photographed objects in Palermo is the giant, snow-white fountain in the Piazza Pretoria, just southeast of the Quattro Canti. The fountain sits in front of City Hall and has become a symbol of governmental corruption. Disgust with Palermo's legendary malfeasance, in addition to the fountain's abundant nudity, are the two reasons that Plaza Pretoria is known among citizens as the Plaza of Shame (Piazza della Vergogna).
We've been in Palermo for almost two months now, and although we've gotten familiar with the main streets, the winding alleys still offer endless opportunities to get lost. And we often do, sometimes even on purpose. There's nothing like the bewildered frustration of being absolutely without orientation to inspire an attack of random photography.
After a couple hours spent wandering the alleyways of Bagheria, we had worked up quite an appetite, and sought out a restaurant recommended by a couple readers: the Antica Osteria Zza' Maria. The word "Zza" alone was enticement enough to visit; it looks like a typo, or the sound a flamboyant snake might make, but is actually Sicilian for "Aunt".
Without a doubt, the top touristic sight in the town of Bagheria is Villa Palagonia. A architectural masterpiece and ode to eccentricity, this building is most famous for its flock of "monsters": an army of gargoyles who adorn the garden walls.
In the 18th century, the elite of Palermo chose Bagheria as the place to escape city life and erect their villas. These remain into the present day, and give the town of 55,000 a peculiar feel. Gorgeous Baroque and Neoclassical villas with poetic names like Palagonia, Spedalotto and Serradifalco are spotted throughout the town, hidden among ugly newer constructions thrown together in the post-war years.
One of our Palermitano readers recently told us that although the most famous nickname for the city is la Felice ("The Happy One"), Palermo is more well known around Sicily as la Licca ("The Glutton"). I think both apply. As I munch down yet another cannolo, I am both happy and gluttonous. Yes, I know I've got cream smeared across my face and cookie flakes on my shirt. So what? BURP
