Adventures, anecdotes and advice from three months exploring Palermo
One of the most controversial figures in recent Italian history is Salvatore Giuliano, who enjoyed a reputation as the Sicilian Robin Hood, stealing from the rich to give to the poor. But that's a simplistic and overly noble description of Giuliano, who operated out of Montelepre near Palermo and was a constant thorn in the side of the government and police.
The Arab rule of Palermo lasted little more than a century, but constituted a true golden age for the city. Gardens and glorious buildings sprouted up, and Palermo replaced Syracuse as the island's capital. It became the second largest city in Europe, renowned across the continent as a center of learning and for its privileged way of life. Among the many improvements introduced by the Moors was a system of underground canals, or Qanat, that provided the whole city with fresh water from natural springs in the Monreale area.
Second in importance only to Palermo's Cathedral, the Chiesa di San Domenico is a church found in the Vucciria neighborhood. Originally constructed between 1458 and 1480, the church sits away from Via Roma at the back of the plaza that shares its name. With its impressive Baroque facade and its sheer size, we couldn't resist taking a peek inside.
Palermo is the kind of loud, in-your-face city about which it doesn't take long to form strong first impressions. The beauty, noise, trash, history and lively street life don't hide themselves, and I suspect that our initial feelings about the city will not change a lot over the course of the next couple months.
Green oases of tranquility found at the south-eastern end of Palermo's historic center, the twin parks of the Villa Guilia and Orto Botánico provide much-needed places of relaxation and quiet in the otherwise hectic city.
I would say it was a pretty successful night. We had discovered Mikalsa, a cool bar within walking distance of our apartment, and heard an incredible concert by Renzo Rubino, a local artist trying to make it big. Plus, we became instant addicts of Mikalsa's home-brewed beer called Panormus, in honor of Palermo's original Greek name.
Sicilian cuisine continues to spring wonderful surprises on us. I had been completely unaware of the existence of sfincione, or Sicilian Pizza, until we visited Monreale. And now, I'll never forget it.
Entrance to Monreale's mind-shattering Cathedral was free, so when the ticket lady at the neighboring Benedictine Cloister asked us for €6 apiece, we were expecting to be blown away. Unfortunately, we weren't.
If you don't want your jaw to smack painfully against the ground, you'd do well to wear a tight chin strap when visiting the Cathedral of Monreale. During our tour, my mouth was wide open, rivulets of drool escaping my gaping jowl. But I didn't care, and I doubt anyone was paying attention. To be inside the Monreale's cathedral and concentrate on anything other than its shimmering beauty is nearly impossible.
On any visit to Palermo, a day trip to the town of Monreale is essential for a few reasons. Its magnificent cathedral is one of the world's finest and best-preserved examples of Norman architecture. And the view obtained over Palermo's valley is incredible. Just a handful of miles from the city, Monreale couldn't be easier to reach and would be worth the journey just for a walk through its picturesque, sleepy mountain streets.
