Thinking about Sicilian food nearly always sets the stomach to growling. Perfectly-baked pizzas, al dente pasta smothered in a rich ragú, fried arancine, swordfish filets, cannoli, pani c'a meusa. Mmmmm... Hold on, wait just a second. That last one, I don't recognize that. "Oh no? Well then, my friend, we must educate you. Pani c'a meusa!"
Palermo's football team plays in the top flight of one of the world's best leagues, Italy's Serie A. In the last few years, U.S. Città di Palermo has become one of the more feared sides in the country. This season, they had won all five games at home, in the Stadio Renzo Barbera. We went to a Sunday afternoon match against Fiorentina to see if they could continue the streak.
Set atop a mountain overlooking Trapani, in Sicily's northwestern corner, the town of Erice has a history rooted in mythology. We spent a few hours getting lost on the uneven stone roads and tiny alleys which curve senselessly about the town, and felt as though we'd stepped back in time. If only the weather had played along.
During our day trip to Sicily's northwestern extreme, we only had a couple hours to explore Trapani. That's not nearly enough time to do justice to this city of 70,000, but it was winter. Days are shorter, and we also had Erice to get to. So we confined ourselves to Trapani's historic center, which begins as the city branches off from the island and becomes a narrow strip of land jutting into the sea.
Sipping on a cappuccino in the Piazza Rivoluzione, the place where the 1848 uprising against the French began, I came to the realization that despite my angry mood and annoying stress of everyday life, things could be worse.
One of the top sights in Palermo is the Norman Palace, on the western extreme of the old city center. A massive complex built in the 11th century, the palace is still used today as the seat of the Sicilian government. Tourists are allowed in, but understandably restricted to a small section.
One of the stranger fruits we've encountered in Palermo has been the cactus pear, which is sold at just about every market stand in the city. Fico d'India is native to Sicily, despite its name, and a popular snack with Palermitani. We had to try it.
After a couple hours spent wandering the alleyways of Bagheria, we had worked up quite an appetite, and sought out a restaurant recommended by a couple readers: the Antica Osteria Zza' Maria. The word "Zza" alone was enticement enough to visit; it looks like a typo, or the sound a flamboyant snake might make, but is actually Sicilian for "Aunt".
Without a doubt, the top touristic sight in the town of Bagheria is Villa Palagonia. A architectural masterpiece and ode to eccentricity, this building is most famous for its flock of "monsters": an army of gargoyles who adorn the garden walls.
One of our Palermitano readers recently told us that although the most famous nickname for the city is la Felice ("The Happy One"), Palermo is more well known around Sicily as la Licca ("The Glutton"). I think both apply. As I munch down yet another cannolo, I am both happy and gluttonous. Yes, I know I've got cream smeared across my face and cookie flakes on my shirt. So what? BURP
